Formulación y evaluación in vitro de una emulsión fotoprotectora con fitocomplejos de plantas nativas peruanas

Abstract

La tesis denominada "Formulación y evaluación in vitro de una emulsión fotoprotectora con Fitocomplejos de plantas nativas peruanas" está alineada a la ODS 3 Salud y bienestar ya que aborda la alta incidencia de cáncer de piel en Perú (3.525 casos 2021-2023), impulsada por niveles extremos de UV en costas y Andes, donde solo el 20% usa fotoprotectores diarios debido a costos. El objetivo general informa resultados de formulación y evaluación in vitro de emulsiones O/W con extractos de Tara (Caesalpinia spinosa) y Maca (Lepidium meyenii) a concentraciones 2%, y 5%. Se evalúan características organolépticas (color, olor, homogeneidad), fisicoquímicas (pH, viscosidad, densidad), estabilidad y FPS vía espectrofotometría de Mansur alineado con normas CAN 516 y USP 35. Estudio cuantitativo básico, no experimental transversal exploratorio. Los resultados demostraron que la emulsión presentó características organolépticas y fisicoquímicas adecuadas (apariencia homogénea, color uniforme, olor suave herbal‑terroso, textura cremosa, pH 5.5–5.7, densidad 1.03–1.05 g/mL, viscosidad 9000 cP y buena extensibilidad), lo que indica una formulación cosméticamente aceptable y de fácil aplicación. Asimismo, demostró buena estabilidad física preliminar, sin separación de fases tras centrifugación, y un FPS moderado (1213), funcional para uso diario, aunque con ligera disminución tras dilución. En conjunto, la emulsión es una alternativa natural viable con potencial fotoprotector complementario, que requiere optimización de concentraciones y evaluación de estabilidad prolongada e in vivo.

The thesis entitled “Formulation and In Vitro Evaluation of a Photoprotective Emulsion Containing Phytocomplexes from Native Peruvian Plants” is aligned with Sustainable Development Goal (SDG) 3: Good Health and Well-Being, as it addresses the high incidence of skin cancer in Peru (3,525 cases reported between 2021 and 2023), driven by extreme ultraviolet (UV) radiation levels in coastal and Andean regions, where only 20% of the population uses sunscreen daily due to economic constraints. The general objective was to report the results of the formulation and in vitro evaluation of oil-inwater (O/W) emulsions containing extracts of Tara (Caesalpinia spinosa) and Maca (Lepidium meyenii) at concentrations of 2% and 5%. The formulations were evaluated for organoleptic characteristics (color, odor, and homogeneity), physicochemical properties (pH, viscosity, and density), stability, and Sun Protection Factor (SPF) using the Mansur spectrophotometric method, in accordance with CAN Resolution 516 and USP 35 guidelines. This was a basic, quantitative, non-experimental, cross-sectional, and exploratory study. The results demonstrated that the emulsion exhibited suitable organoleptic and physicochemical characteristics, including a homogeneous appearance, uniform color, mild herbal-earthy odor, creamy texture, pH values between 5.5 and 5.7, density ranging from 1.03 to 1.05 g/mL, viscosity of approximately 9,000 cP, and good spreadability. These findings indicate a cosmetically acceptable formulation that is easy to apply. Furthermore, the emulsion showed good preliminary physical stability, with no phase separation observed after centrifugation, and achieved a moderate SPF (12–13), suitable for daily use, although a slight reduction was observed after dilution. Overall, the emulsion represents a viable natural alternative with complementary photoprotective potential, although optimization of extract concentrations and further long-term stability and in vivo evaluations are recommended.